H

H-Cut v. To open a CARDBOARD or plastic wrapped CASE by making an H-shaped cut in its top surface. —n. Such an H-shaped cut. See also BASE-CUT, BOX CUTTER, LIFT-CUT, SHARK-CUT, STACK-CUT, TAPE-CUT, TOP-CUT, TRAY-CUT, WINDOW-CUT, X-CUT. See also RIM LOCK.

NOTE: The benefit of an H-Cut is it's one of the least invasive cuts, and most importantly of all, it preserves the integrity of the CASE'S sides. This is no big deal if you know for certain that the entire CASE will GO. But, if you're unsure, or you expect to have leftovers, what happens next? The answer is, the remainder of the CASE most likely gets STACKED—either on a SPECIALS CART or an OVERSTOCK RUNNER—and you'll need the CASE to be as strong and sturdy as possible to protect both the PRODUCT and you against any potential mishaps.

Technically, you might call the way you open a standard CARDBOARD CASE with a middle seam on top an H-Cut, since if you cut the two sides and the seam, it is H-shaped. However, that's just a standard TAPE-CUT, and not what we're talking about here. Here, we mean a cut covering an area smaller than the full top of the CASE.

Hand JACK n. See JACK.

Hide v. To place a slight excess of a PRODUCT somewhere close to its regular HOLE on the SHELF, once the HOLE itself has been completely filled: Hide up to 2 or 3 extra items—no more. See also GO, JAM, LAY-IN, MAKE IT GO.

NOTE: Why Hide? Because it saves time and trouble. Picture it: you've filled the HOLE, except you have one or two ITEMS left over. As appropriate, do you take them back to the SPECIALS RUNNERS or BACK-STOCK them? It depends...

Generally speaking, you should not attempt to Hide big, bulky ITEMS like gi-gundo bags of dog food, or mega-canisters of laundry detergent. Neither should you try to Hide something that MOVES very slowly, like, say, a specialty imported chutney.

It's generally OK to Hide it if:

• after filling its assigned HOLE, you only have 1, 2, or at most 3 ITEMS left over
  
• it's relatively small
• it's popular, has high turn-over, and the Hidden ITEMS will soon be reunited with the rest of the STOCK in the right SPOT
  
• there's enough space either to the left or the right of its assigned HOLE
• you can't JAM the extra where it belongs

When possible, JAMMING is preferable to Hiding, because it doesn't disturb other ITEMS.

Hiding a slight excess among neighboring ITEMS to the left or right is preferable to a SPOT on another SHELF above or below because on the same SHELF it's more easily discovered and more easily corrected as ITEMS are sold, or perhaps, as NIGHT CREW does its finishing BLOCK.

It's generally better to Hide shallow, behind just a few neighboring ITEMS, and not all the way at the back of the neighboring HOLE. Remember, you want Hidden ITEMS to be restored to their proper HOLE sooner rather than later. It's bad if, say, the same size and shape of pickle jar is buried and goes undiscovered at the back of a neighboring HOLE when the ITEM'S proper HOLE has run empty. The goal is to mess up the ordering and INVENTORY control system as little as possible.

High-Lift n. A heavy, powered, walk-behind forklift capable of lifting a loaded PALLET up to about three stories high and extending its fork to insert and remove it from the OVERSTOCK RACKS in the BACK ROOM. See also JACK.

Hole n. 1. A PRODUCT'S normally assigned SPOT on the SHELF. 2. A SPOT that's either nearly or completely empty.

Hollow n., adj. A DISPLAY characteristic, as having a false front and interior supports; same as DUMMIED UP: Build it hollow. Contrast SOLID.

Hollow Out v. To take PRODUCT from the interior of a DISPLAY, behind its FACE, usually to build it up higher again: Hollow out that display.

Holster n. A small, separate, pocket-like container affixed to a belt via a clip which is used to hold and keep a BOX CUTTER readily available when not in immediate use. See also BELT CLIP. Contrast HUNT2.

Hunt v. 1. To physically lead or guide a CUSTOMER who is in search of a particular PRODUCT: We're hunting for Tahini. See also WHERE IS... ? 2. To search in your pants pocket for your CUTTER.

NOTE:

Hunting1, that is, taking the time and trouble when asked to help a CUSTOMER locate what they want to buy helps build GOODWILL, and is generally A Very Good Thing. Even if you don't find it, they know you care.

Continually Hunting2 in your pants pocket for your BOX CUTTER is both a nuisance and a waste of time. Get a BELT CLIP or HOLSTER.

I

In-and-Out n. An ITEM that's available only for a short time, while supplies last. Often supplied as a SHIPPER.

In-Stock adv. Immediately available in the STORE, and for sale. Contrast RECALLED.

In the GUN n. Entered on the NEGATIVE ORDER WORKSHEET: Is that already in the gun? See GUN. See also BACK-STOCK, INVENTORY, OVERSTOCK.

Inventory n. 1. The total on-hand quantity of one or more ITEMS, up to the total of everything in the STORE. 2. See BACK-STOCK: Put that in inventory. —v. The act of enumerating such totals: Next week we take inventory.

NOTE: Inventory reminds me of Goldilocks and the Three Bears...

You don't want to have too much; too much and you've tied up a lot of money in stuff that's just sitting around in your BACK ROOM. Nothing gets sold out of the BACK ROOM, so that's a waste.

On the other hand, you don't want to have too little; too little, and you run out of things, disappoint the CUSTOMERS who otherwise would have bought what you don't have, so they go elsewhere, and you eventually may go out of business—um,... Not Good.

What you want is for your Inventory levels to be ju-s-t ri-g-h-t. Hence the system we have, where incoming ITEMS are WORKED to the SHELF, and slight excesses are managed as SPECIALS and OVERSTOCK.

Meanwhile, SALE ITEMS may rotate through DISPLAYS in a cascade of decreasing size from EVZ, FAST-WALL and END-CAPS, to 3-WAYS and WINGS and finally back down to the SHELF, with ITEMS being injected into this cycle at any point.

Orchestrating this ballet is the job of the GROCERY MANAGER, and the entire upwards chain of STORE management. Inventory control is a critical aspect of merchandising efforts everywhere, and a major field of study. We certainly can't do it justice here. Yet, we can note its importance and admire it.

Keeping Inventory levels generally low is A Very Good Thing, and has a very positive impact on the STORE'S overall profitability.

Inventory Day n. 1. A reality check, or snapshot, where all STOCK on hand is counted and reconciled vs. the tallies on record.

NOTE: Starting a few days ahead of time, every full and every partial CASE in the BACK ROOM must get marked with the quantity inside, and the ITEM'S REGULAR PRICE, e.g., 9 x 0.67 or 48 x 1.39, and so on. On the day itself, these all get tallied up by a special outside INVENTORY TEAM.

Inventory Team n. 1. An external team of people who specialize in taking INVENTORY. See RGIS.

I.P.M.s n. 1. Items Per Minute. A measure of a checkout cashier's productivity. I.e., their CUSTOMER throughput, based on how fast they SCAN.

NOTE: There's apparently been a gradual downward trend over the years in the Front-End team's average. Nowadays, I.P.M.s above 30 are great! Above 20, good. Below 10, get immediate help!

Item n. 1. A single unit quantity of something that's for sale: Seven items or less. 2. The aggregate class of any such thing: I can't find this item on the shelf.

Item-Not-Found n. 1. The notification a cashier reads on-screen at a check-out register whenever the ITEM just SCANNED is not listed in the STORE'S computer. Usually results in a PAGE requesting a PRICE CHECK.

NOTE: Besides the obvious error of something not being in the computer when it should, another possible reason for getting Item-Not-Found might be that it was DISCONTINUED, DISCOUNTED and put on the DISCOUNT RACK, but somehow the DISCOUNT TAG either fell off or the cashier somehow mistakenly scanned the UPC on the original LABEL. Since DISCONTINUED ITEMS are not maintained in the records, attempting to scan one at checkout results in Item-not-found.

Occasionally a CUSTOMER will root out one or two DISCONTINUED ITEMS that were inadvertently left on the SHELF. Same result.

As a STOCK CLERK, if you can't resolve the issue by inspecting LABELS, UPC bar codes and SHELF TAGS, or by asking the GROCERY MANAGER, it's then up to the FRONT-END MANAGER to deal with it—perhaps by setting an acceptable PRICE, or by withdrawing the ITEM and sending it back to the RECEIVER for resolution at a later time.

J

J-Hook n. A type of CLIP STRIP characterized by a long metal rod having many small attached spring clips down its length, and terminating on top with a bent, candy cane or J shape, which slips into a special J-HOOK HOLDER. See also CLIP STRIP, J-HOOK HOLDER.

NOTE: J-Hooks are also sometimes hung from the front edge of a sheet of PLEXIGLASS separating layers of a FAST-WALL or EVZ DISPLAY using one of the small wire handles of a regular black, metal binder-clip, as may be purchased from any stationary store.

Also, sometimes they are simply slipped over the upright CARDBOARD edge of a WINDOW-CUT or TRAY-CUT or other such suitable CARDBOARD CASE.

J-Hook Holder n. A unique shiny steel bracket that has two prongs on its flat upper surface, which are bent slightly so to as to slip into perforations in SHELF surface near its edges, and which thus lies flat with the SHELF surface underneath any PRODUCT overburden. The bracket protrudes outwards from the shelf about two inches (2.5 mm) and has two ears which are folded downward on either side, each containing a suitably sized hole to accommodate a J-HOOK, thus allowing one such bracket to support two J-HOOKS, back to back. See also CLIP STRIP, J-HOOK.

NOTE: Be careful—these things can do serious damage to your elbow if you're working a top SHELF nearby and not paying close attention.

Jack n. A two-tined rolling fork lift with a manual pump handle that's used to raise (up to several inches), move and DROP PALLETS. Also HAND JACK. See also HIGH-LIFT, POWER JACK.

Jam v. To force all, a greater quantity than usual, or sometimes an excessive amount of any ITEM into its HOLE. —adv. Completely full: It's jammed. See also GO, HIDE, LAY-IN, MAKE IT GO.

NOTE: Some things, like glass jars, are just not meant to be Jammed. Better to just keep it on the RUNNER or BACK-STOCK the excess and move on.

K

Key n. 1. The means to unlock either the GATE to the TRUCK or the door to the POP SHELLS PORCH in RECEIVING: Who's got the key? 2. The means to unlock the chute to the GARBAGE COMPACTOR in the GROCERY BACK ROOM.

NOTE: As a matter of STORE policy, when not in active use, every perimeter door or outside access point is always to be kept locked, with its ALARM ARMED. This helps prevent THEFT or other forms of SHRINK. Sensible, but this means that to do your job of the moment, you'll sometimes need to get the Key. The Key should always be in the possession of either the DEPARTMENT MANAGER or MANAGER-ON-DUTY. Considering the responsibility it represents, always take extremely good care of the Key, and return it immediately.

Kill v. To completely take down or remove a PRODUCT DISPLAY: Kill that Detergent.

NOTE: Unless told otherwise, Kill always includes WORKING the removed ITEMS, i.e., first to the SHELF and then to either the SPECIALS RUNNERS or BACK-STOCK with both the CODE and quantity of remaining CASES being put in the GUN.

Knife n. See BOX CUTTER.

L

Label n. A directly printed-on or applied printed indicator of a CASE or PRODUCT'S manufacturer, name, contents, UPC code and/or other necessary information, often with distinctive designs and branding graphics: Check the label's UPC number.

Label-Forward adv., adj. To position a PRODUCT on the SHELF so that the front of it's LABEL faces forward and is clearly visible to the CUSTOMER: Always throw label-forward.

NOTE: Most CUSTOMERS buy based on what they see. If they can't clearly see the label they know and are expecting to find, it inhibits their buying. Not good. Turn every label FACE forward. It's STORE policy, well worth it, and you'll get faster at it with continual practice.

Lay-In v. To force a slight excess of an ITEM to the SHELF by laying it back in the HOLE horizontally, within the gap created by the vertical asymmetry of a particular PRODUCT'S packaging: Lay-in any extra ones and twos. Also WEDGE. See also GO, HIDE, JAM, MAKE IT GO. —n. The result of such action: That's an easy lay-in.

NOTE: Candidates? Salad dressings, barbecue sauces, etc., where the necks are significantly narrower than the bottle's lower body and the bottle is well and tightly sealed.

Depending on geometry, you may get even more to GO by Laying-In one unit base-first, the next top-first, and then repeating the pattern, base-to-base and neck-to-neck so that necks interlock like opposing teeth on gears.

Cautions: Don't lay-in anything where the top is loose, or there's any chance it will ever leak. For example, all those pump-action bottles of hand soaps? Uh-uh. Some things were never meant to be tipped on their side. Many dish washing soaps are likewise "iffy," at best. Why risk a mess?

Watch out that the weight of the Layed-In ITEMS doesn't force the supporting ITEMS outwards, causing everything to collapse into adjacent SPOTS. Not good. Only do Lay-Ins when the SHELF is already tightly packed. Whenever possible, seek to avoid Lay-Ins that protrude into the visible area towards the front of the SHELF.

Lift n. 1. See HIGH-LIFT. 2. See JACK. —v. To raise up.

Lift-Cut v. To CUT while lifting a portion of external packaging upward and away from the interior contents in order to avoid accidental damage. —n. Any cut so made. See also BASE-CUT, BOX CUTTER, H-CUT, SHARK-CUT, STACK-CUT, TAPE-CUT, TOP-CUT, TRAY-CUT, WINDOW-CUT, X-CUT.

NOTE:

For BOXES cut the two side flap tapes first, then insert a finger off to the side and pull up to create a peaked rooftop effect, then -- taking care to avoid your finger -- cut the elevated taped center seam.

For plastic-bagged CASES first carefully poke a hole in the exterior wrapper in a place where the contents are not endangered, insert a finger and pull upwards to create a tent effect, then -- always taking care to avoid your finger -- cut down and away, carefully sliding your finger along to maintain an elevated separation between the wrapper and the package contents.

Load n. 1. The contents of the TRUCK that need to be THROWN, typically by NIGHT CREW: We've got several extra runners of load. 2. The entire contents of the STORE at any given time. Also INVENTORY.

Loading Dock n. Where the TRUCK backs up to the GATE in the RECEIVING DEPARTMENT to be loaded and unloaded. Also DOCK.

Lock n. 1. A desirable trait, only characteristic of some cans, where the bottom rim has a smaller circumference than the top, thus permitting them to easily and securely nest one on top of another: Locking cans are so much easier to stack! 2. See RIM LOCK.

Lock-Up n. An area kept under lock and KEY for anti-theft, security reasons: That's in lock-up.

Lot n. 1. The main parking Lot in front of the STORE. 2. ITEMS with a common date of manufacture, expiration date, etc.

Lotto n. Any state-sponsored lottery. See also SCRATCHER.

NOTE: A popular way for many EMPLOYEES to gamble away some of what little money they've earned.

Lunch n. 1. For shifts over six hours, a mandatory half-hour BREAK, which, regardless of time of day, is always punched into the TIME CLOCK as Meal. 2. Not available to immediately respond to pages or instructions (except for dire emergencies) because of taking such a mandatory meal BREAK: I'm on lunch.

M

Make a BALE v. The process of emptying the full BALER, disposing of the BALE itself, and making the device ready for the next BALE.

NOTE: There are several variations on how to do this. Over the years, I've tried a few, and as a result, I've outlined below the method I think really works best.

It's really only a few simple steps, but with lots of added description in an attempt to make it as clear as possible. So, don't worry. It's much, much easer to do than it is to describe. And—because this way avoids many potential hassles—it's also the fastest way I know of, overall. You save a lot of time and trouble for the next person—which just might also be you.

So. Both better and faster. What's not to like?

HOW TO: Make a BALE

1. READY?—Collect Lid CARDBOARD In Advance
   • During your SHIFT, make sure to save up large, flat pieces of sturdy CARDBOARD—e.g., from SHIPPER cartons, Paper Towel CASES, etc.—and store them behind the BALER.
     
     
2. GET SET...—Verify, Clear Out Trouble, and Make a Lid
   
   
• VERIFY: Is it really time for a Bale?
• Is BALER halted, with grate down and red Bale Made indicator on control panel lit?
• YES?
• Definitely full, and time for a BALE!
  
  
• NO?
• CHECK and see if BALER is really full:
• CLOSE the BALER'S wire safety grate and PUSH the AUTO button to cycle the BALER as usual.
• WATCH the I-beam atop the compression platten. When it pauses at the lowest point of its travel cycle, compare its top edge to the top edge of the BALER'S side door. It should be not much, if any, higher than the top edge of the BALER'S solid side door.
  
  So, where is it? Is the I-Beam...
• BELOW door top by more than a few inches?
• Not enough for a standard BALE. Only continue if manager confirms go ahead. Otherwise, come back later.
• AT or NEAR door's top edge?
• Perfect! Time to make a BALE.
• ABOVE door top by more than a few inches?
• May be too full to easily make a BALE; consider taking out the excess to set aside. You can put it back in later, after you've finished making this BALE, when the chamber is once again empty.
  
  
• VERIFY: Got CARDBOARD for lids?
• NO?
• Uh-oh! Someone squished your stash behind the BALER! You need to find more in a hurry.
• Signal others to add no more CARDBOARD until BALE is made.
• Close safety grate, push AUTO to cycle BALER as usual, but at lowest point press the red EMER(gency) STOP button.
• Quickly scrounge around for suitable large flat CARDBOARD, starting with the Bakery's CARDBOARD dumpster. If all else fails, gather and break down six BANANA BOXES , e.g., from the Produce DEPARTMENT.
• Got BOARD? If necessary, pull out red EMER(gency) STOP button you may have previously depressed, and press and hold the MAN(ual) UP button until the safety grate rises.
  
  
• YES? Continue.
  
• Clear Out Trouble: No excess, No stuck fragments, No tape
• If there's a drastically irregular, sloped or otherwise uneven surface, or if there's simply too much jammed inside, it's easiest to just take out whatever you deem to be a potential problem, set it aside, and put it back in later, after the BALER is empty.
• Now, get a MILK CRATE to stand on (one should usually be nearby), and clean out any CARDBOARD fragments stuck up in the cracks around the underside of the BALER'S platten.
• Also make sure no tape is stuck up in any of the 6 wire-guide channels set into its underside.
  
  
• Put A Lid On It
  
• Make a top lid for the BALE by putting layers of the large flat CARDBOARD you've collected just for this purpose on top of the already compressed CARDBOARD inside the BALER. Hold aside enough flat stock to likewise make a bottom lid of one or two layers in a later step. The lids will help keep the channels open so you can more easily thread in the BALE WIRES later.
  
  
3. GO!—MAKE THE BALE
   
   
• Squish It Again
  
• Close the safety grate and cycle the BALER. When it reaches its bottom limit (listen for a change to a higher audible pitch), press and hold the MAN(ual) DOWN button to compress the BALE as tightly as possible.
  
  
• Open Wide
  
• Release the button and unlock the BALER'S side door by operating the wheel screw on the control side of the BALER. Then use the door handle to swing out the side door until it's wide open—past 90°—and expose the edge-on side of the BALE. The grate should also pop open by itself and lift out of the way as soon as you tug on the side door. If not, get help.
  
  
• Clear Away Junk
  
• Put an upside down MILK CRATE in front of the open BALER, get up, and inspect the top of the platten in its "down" position. Remove any CARDBOARD fragments. Pay special attention to any stuck down in the groove along the back edge, otherwise in the next step they might block your ramrod.
  
  
Ream Out Channels

• Locate the large iron ramrod pipe kept behind the BALER, and plunge it into the wire channels on the underside of the platten on top of the BALE until you make contact with the metal frame at the back of each channel. If necessary, use the ramrod to break through any obstructing CARDBOARD, jack-hammer style. (If the lid you set in place earlier is thick and strong, it minimizes difficulties here.) If you're still unable to clear a particular channel, try the next one over. Your aim is to clear at least five of the six available channels.
  
  
• Get Bale Wire
  
• After the channels are cleared, go to the elevated BALE WIRE tray along the back wall and select 5 strands. Pull them out carefully, in a gentle arc, to avoid kinks and bends.
  
  
• Thread Wire Channels
  
• Starting with a channel on either outer edge, thread the individual strands one at a time, loop-end first into each of the channels, gently pushing the wires in until the loop protrudes about six inches out of the channel opening at the bottom of the BALE.
  
  If the wire becomes stuck, try to back it out for another try. If you can't, take the ramrod you used earlier, wrap the tail of the stuck wire several times around it to create a handle, and carefully pull the wire out and discard it.
  
  Try again with a fresh piece of wire, this time feeding the straight end of the wire in first. If that doesn't work, remove it as before, and try the next channel. The goal is to feed at least 5 wires completely around the bulk of the bale. In a pinch, 4 may have to do, but is definitely not advised. In such a 4-wire case, consider the extreme measure of threading a second, reinforcing wire through an outside channel that has no threaded neighbor within a distance of two empty channels.
  
  
• Twist 'Em Tight
  
• One at a time, for each wire, thread the straight end of the wire into the hole of the looped end and take up most of the slack, so that while you pull on the wire the loop stands only a few inches off of the BALE surface, ideally only about a quarter to a third of the way up the face of the BALE from where the loop exited the channel. By leaving enough slack to pass your hand freely around the wire, you should avoid any paper cuts from the edge of the BALE as you twist the wire in a later step.
  
  Later, as pressure is taken off the compressed BALE, any slack you leave now will disappear anyway, so it's nothing to worry about.
• Right at the loop, put a hairpin bend in the straight wire so that it reverses direction at the point where it exits the loop. Then, reach behind the two lengths of wire with your other hand, and pull the middle part of the free-ended wire around to the front. As you do this, the loose end of the wire should catch the other wire segment at the edge of the BALE all by itself, and hold its position. The goal is to create a vaguely D-shaped handle out of the loose portion of the wire.
• Twist this D-shaped part of the wire around and around the tight portion of wire several times, until it has become too small to easily turn.
• Take the loose, pointy excess end of the wire and turn it around and under the wrapped wire so it won't poke you or anyone else as you work your way across the open face of the BALE.
  
  Again, other methods of tying BALE WIRE exist, but they are also more likely to cause the wire to slip or break.
  
  
• Place a Pallet
  
• When all wires are in place, get a solidly built PALLET (plastic or CHEP, not flimsy plain wood), and center it with its long edge about 5 or 6 inches from the foot of the exposed BALE.
  
  
• All Clear? Stand Back...
• 
  WARNING: You're about to put the BALE WIRES under great strain. If one or more wires break, it can be extremely dangerous. No one can dodge a supersonic wire whip. Not to mention, the BALE literally weighs a ton! So,...
  
• Get everyone and everything out of harm's way. Clear out the space at least 20 feet forward of the open side of the BALER. Ensure it stays clear until after the BALE has been safely ejected. ...Including you too!
  
• Stand off to the side of the BALER, and operate its controls from just around the corner.
  
  
• Eject!
• When all is clear, press and hold the MAN(ual) UP button to raise the BALER platten and then engage the kick plate that will tip out the BALE.
• The compressed CARDBOARD stack will expand and take up any slack left in the wires.
• If you wrapped them properly as instructed, and used the correct number, they shouldn't slip, and are unlikely to break.
• Continue to push the MAN(ual) UP button until the BALER'S bottom kicker plate has engaged, tipped the BALE forward, and caused it to topple out onto the PALLET you previously set in place.
• Trouble? NEVER let any part of your person get between the tipping BALE and the PALLET its falling towards, no matter if its slow or completely stuck. Don't get hurt—get help!
  
  
• Tote That Bale
  
• Get a JACK or POWER JACK and move the BALE and PALLET combination aside.
• If the GATE to the TRUCK is locked, DROP the PALLET so the BALE sits short-end-forward right in front of the GATE, but not so close that it obstructs the raising of the GATE'S protruding bottom lip.
• On the other hand, if the GATE is open, put the PALLET and BALE on the TRUCK, tight against the outer wall, making sure it's on the side opposite any previous BALE, if present, so the weights of multiple BALES counter-balance each other.
• Remember to add one to both the PALLET and BALE tallies in the appropriate columns of the SHEET kept at the RECEIVING desk.
  
  
4. MAKE READY
   
   
• Clean Out Scraps, Tape, etc.
  
• When you return to the BALER, pay special attention to the BALE WIRE channels at the back and along the bottom of the BALER cavity. They must be completely cleaned out.
• To begin, find a ready-to-recycle, sturdy BOX flap, cut it off, and you have a broom. If necessary, use it to sweep any loose CARDBOARD scraps or other debris resting on the bottom of the BALER chamber itself.
• Next, fold this same severed BOX flap in half to create a long, narrow U-shaped channel scraper. The rounded fold at the end does the work, as it more or less matches the interior shape of the channel.
• Starting at the top rear of the chamber, slide your disposable scrapper deep into the first channel. Drag it down, then out along the shallow bottom, so any debris exits the open side of the cavity.
• Repeat this scrape-out for each and every channel.
• Because it's surprisingly easy to block the next piece of BALE WIRE to be threaded through, it's important to ensure not even the smallest CARDBOARD scrap, tape, sticker or anything else remains in any channel.
  
  
• Reset the Kick Plate
  
• Swing the BALER door closed, but don't tighten the hinge locking screw. Instead, save time by simply pushing the bottom of the door closed with your foot. Meanwhile, reach for and lower the wire mesh safety grate. If the safety grate won't latch, push harder with your foot to close any gap between the door and BALER frame.
• 
  WARNING: You're about to make an extremely loud noise that could otherwise damage your hearing. So, with one hand COVER YOUR EAR on the side of your head towards the BALER cavity. SPEAK UP, and say, e.g., LOUD NOISE to warn anyone else in the area (e.g., the RECEIVER, VENDORS, etc.).
  
  
• Then, push and hold the MAN(ual) DOWN button until the previously raised kicker plate inside the BALER falls back down—CLANG!—to lie once again flat on the bottom of the BALER cavity.
• Remove your foot, swing the door back open and allow the grate to rise.
  
  
• Lay Down a Bottom
  
• The goal here is to ensure no channels become blocked as CARDBOARD is added to create the next BALE. So, make a "Bottom" by laying one or two layers of flat CARDBOARD from your supply over the entire bottom of the BALER cavity. It won't need to be as thick as the top lid. Two layers is better, but even one will do in a pinch. (If you're desperately short on BOARD, you can even omit covering the kicker plate, as no wire passes under it.)
  
• Again swing the BALER door closed, but this time do tighten the hinge locking screw, so the open edge of the door is secured as tightly as possible.
  
  
• Clean Up
  
• TOSS IN CARDBOARD fragments or empty CASES, etc. that didn't fit into the BALER earlier, or which folks may have brought over while you were making the BALE.
• SWEEP UP any debris.
• WASH UP at THE SINK, since BALE WIRE is grimy stuff your hands are probably very dirty, and then,
• You're done!

Make a SPOT v. See CUT IN.

Make It GO v. To force an ITEM to the SHELF, and not return any of it to the BACK ROOM. Within reason, this instruction means—if you must—JAM or HIDE any slight excess. See also GO, HIDE, JAM, LAY-IN.

NOTE: You never want to do too much violence to the established order. So, if you have a lot of excess, you should being it back, regardless. It's possible your MANAGER or CREW CHIEF wasn't aware that, e.g., someone else had already filled the SPOT.

Man n. Any team member, regardless of gender: We were down a man last night.

Manager n. 1. A person in charge of one or more DEPARTMENTS. 2. Short for MANAGER-ON-DUTY: (page) Manager to the FRONT-END, please.

Manager-On-Duty n. The most senior MANAGER in the STORE at any given time, or whomever has been deputized to serve as acting STORE MANAGER.

Map n. See STORE DIRECTORY.

Margin n. The profit made from selling an ITEM after accounting for all overhead expenses like shipping, labor, and other costs.

NOTE: NOTE: The higher an ITEM'S Margin, the more profitable it is for the STORE. Couple that with high TURNOVER on the SHELF and you have A Very Good Thing.

My hunch is that if you also consider rate of TURNOVER and other factors, bottled water may be the most profitable thing in the STORE.

Mark-Down RUNNER n. A RUNNER in the BACK ROOM upon which the RECEIVER puts reduced-priced DISCONTINUED or DAMAGED ITEMS still suitable for sale at a reduced PRICE, and which is periodically (e.g., at CLOSING) taken up to the FRONT END for the U-SCAN operator to put onto the DISCOUNT RACK.

Marker n. A chisel-point, felt-tip writing implement with black, permanent ink used for writing STOCK NUMBERS and other information and notations on PRODUCT CASES.

NOTE: NOTE: Carry two (2) markers, so you don't get stuck when the first one runs dry. Wrap a rubber band around the barrel of the unused one as a signal that it's brand new, and keep it in a different pocket. Just keep using the one without the rubber band until it runs out. That way you'll also avoid having two dried up markers at the same time.

Marks n. See CASE NOTATIONS, SHELF NOTATIONS.

Mezz n. See MEZZANINE: It's under the Mezz.

Mezzanine n. A large interior raised platform accessed by stairs or through chained-off gaps in the railing that creates an interior second floor storage area inside the BACK ROOM. Typically used for storing seasonal DISPLAYS, unused END-CAP and 3-WAY shelving, spare Produce tables, etc.

Milk Crate n. A sturdy, stackable and reusable wire-frame container with a heavy-duty plastic bottom, or similar, fully plastic container used to ship cartons of milk or other dairy PRODUCTS. Also simply CRATE: Crate that up.

NOTE: There is a daily flow of CRATES between Dairy and Grocery DEPARTMENTS because they are so strong, so readily available, and so convenient to use. For instance, they get borrowed to hold and protect glass jars coming off DISPLAYS and being transported to the BACK ROOM on RUNNERS. Either at the end of the SHIFT, or whenever a sufficient number of empties pile up in Grocery, they're returned to Dairy. Dairy will periodically load their seemingly endless supply of empty Milk Crates onto PALLETS, WRAP them, and put them on the TRUCK to make room for more.

CAUTION: Now, while it's certainly not OSHA-approved, one way to get a few feet of extra height above what the usual footstool provides—e.g., when you need to quickly get a really good view of what's happening up on the aisle's top SHELF, say, to clean up a spill—is to create a stairway of three to six crates stacked upside down, each stack one higher than the previous.

WARNING: Since the wire or plastic bottom crate in contact with the waxed FLOOR is prone to slide, be sure to walk up, do your business, and descend, all very carefully.

The safer, OSHA-approved way is to get one of the sturdy and bulky rolling blue ladders with those nice handrails. A medium-height one is sometimes kept in the bottle-return storeroom adjacent to the CUSTOMER SERVICE DESK, or in theBULK FOODS DEPARTMENT BACK ROOM.

Minus, (-) v. Refers to the (NEGATIVE ORDER WORK)SHEET, and means to record the removal of one or more CASES taken out of BACK-STOCK: Shouldn't I minus this?

Mispick n. An unexpected, un-ordered ITEM received in error as part of the regular LOAD because of a mistaken selection made at the WAREHOUSE. Compare DISTRIBUTION.

Mix n. When written on a CASE in MARKER and circled, a STOCK CLERK'S notation meaning more than one ITEM is in the CASE so marked. Usually done as an effort to conserve space on the CART. See also CASE NOTATIONS.

NOTE:

Unless you Mix ITEMS of totally different colors, shapes or sizes, do something to show where one ITEM ends and the next begins. E.g., put dividers of scrap CARDBOARD between them, turn jars of the other flavor on their head, etc.

Don't make us read every LABEL!

M.O.D. n. See MANAGER-ON-DUTY.

Mop n. 1. A regular, long-handled janitorial device for cleaning up various liquids spilled on a floor. A string Mop. 2. A broad-ended janitorial device for the collection of dust and small dry debris by pushing a long, freely-pivoting handle. A dust Mop. —v. To use a Mop: (Dry) mop up under the Mezz before you go.

Move v. To sell an ITEM, and for it to thus be depleted from its SPOT on the SHELF: Those spiced crackers just aren't moving.

NOTE: Generally, the faster things Move, or turn over, the better.

Mus-ick! n. What you hear over the STORE PA when no other announcement is being made.

NOTE: Canned STORE music is pretty hideous, and gets somewhat monotonous after the first year or so. Depending on your seniority, one of the fringe benefits of working NIGHTS is that (via boom box or iPod) you may get to listen to your own music! The PA is still there, but you can crank up your own volume, just so long as you keep an ear tuned to the CREW CHIEF'S PA call for BREAKS and lunch.

No such luck for DAY CREW, who has to be continually responsive to CUSTOMER traffic in the aisles.

Some folks have asked if perhaps I misspelled this entry, and really intended to use the term Muzak. Nope.

N

Negative Order Worksheet n. See SHEET. A paper form on a clipboard at the GROCERY MANAGER'S desk upon which you write the total number of full and/or partial CASES of an ITEM being put into or taken out of BACK-STOCK, along with the ITEM'S STORE CODE. Used for INVENTORY control, e.g., to prevent unnecessary re-ordering of ITEMS that are already on-hand.

NOTE: You PLUS (+) a CASE going into BACK-STOCK, and MINUS (-) a CASE when it comes out—for example, if it goes to either the SHELF or onto a SALES RUNNER.

New Item n. Something that has no already defined SPOT on the SHELF: "Is this new? I can't find it on the shelf." Compare NOT-ON-SHELF.

New Items RACK n. A RACK in the GROCERY BACK ROOM where ITEMS discovered to be NEW ITEMS are placed to await being CUT IN, or getting their own SPOT during the next RESET.

N.F.S. n. "Not For Sale." See RECALL.

Night Crew n. Anyone who works a NIGHT-SHIFT.

Night-Shift n. An overnight work SCHEDULE that begins anywhere from late evening on, and may end as late in the morning as 9:00 AM. For example, 10:30 PM to 7:00 AM.

Nights n. The Night-Shift: "I'm on nights." Versus DAYS.

Non-Perishable Operations Manager n. (* DEFINITION GOES HERE *)

N.O.S. adj. See NOT-ON-SHELF.

Not-On-Shelf adj. Any ITEM—e.g., NEW, DISCONTINUED, etc.—for which no existing SPOT on the SHELF can be found.

NOTE: Ask if you're at all unsure whether any Not-On-Shelf ITEMS might be NEW or DISCONTINUED.

If NEW, write "NEW" on the CASE and put it on the NEW ITEMS RACK in the GROCERY BACK ROOM.

If DISCONTINUED, write "DISC." on the CASE and put it on the DISCONTINUED ITEMS SHELF on the RACK in the RECEIVING area.

If still unsure, write "N.O.S." on the CASE and put it on the NEW ITEMS RACK in the GROCERY BACK ROOM. Someone else will eventually figure it out if it should be CUT IN, await the next RESET, or perhaps be marked-down by the RECEIVER as a DISCONTINUED ITEM.

Not Scheduled n. The TIME CLOCK'S response to any PUNCHES made during a period when you are not scheduled to be WORKING.

NOTE: See your MANAGER and/or the M.O.D. to resolve this issue if you believe the error is not yours -- for example, if you obtained prior permission to switch hours with someone.

NPOM n. See NON-PERISHABLE OPERATIONS MANAGER.

Number n. See SHELF TAG, STORE CODE.

O

Off-Sale adj. 1. Any ITEM that is no longer ON SALE, and thus has returned to its regular price. 2. Any REGULAR PRICED ITEM.

On/Off THE CLOCK adv. 1. Working/not working and available to take assignments or not. 2. Just PUNCHED IN or OUT a short time ago: "I'm off the clock."

O.O.D. adj. "Out-of-Date." See EXPIRED.

O.O.S. adj. See OUT-OF-STOCK.

Order v. The act of initiating the acquisition or resupply of one or more ITEMS. —n. 1. A record of requested PRODUCTS or SERVICES. 2. Anything your MANAGER or other STORE MANAGER asks you to do.

NOTE: To Order PRODUCT to restock the SHELVES, the SHELF TAG is SCANNED with the GUN on an appropriate setting. This is usually done by a STORE MANAGER, DEPARTMENT MANAGER, NIGHT CREW CHIEF, or other duly deputized individual. Some employers include Ordering as part of a STOCK CLERK'S job description, but my STORE does not.

OSHA n. "Occupational Safety and Health Administration." The federal agency that regulates workplace health and safety standards.

Out-of-Date adj. See EXPIRED.

NOTE: Out of Date ITEMS go to a specially-marked SHELF on the DAMAGED ITEMS RACK in RECEIVING. If they don't fit, any such CASES should be marked O.O.D. and STACKED on the floor nearby.

Out-of-Stock adj. A temporary condition where the SHELF is empty and there's no more of that particular ITEM in the BACK ROOM: "Sorry—we're out of stock." See RAIN CHECK.

NOTE: For any SALE ITEMS that are Out-of-Stock, CUSTOMERS should be encouraged to get a RAIN CHECK from the CUSTOMER SERVICE DESK at the front of the STORE. The GROCERY MANAGER may know more about why an ITEM is Out-Of-Stock, as well as if and when more might come in. Ask.

Look for Temporarily Out of Stock tags on a clipboard beside the GROCERY MANAGER'S desk. To reduce the number of times you may have to go over the same information with different CUSTOMERS, fill out a Temporarily O.O.S. Tag for the SHELF and put it in the HOLE.

Overstock n. See BACK-STOCK.

P

PA n. 1. The STORE'S Public Address system. When not otherwise in use, a steady stream of MUS-ICK! issues forth, periodically punctuated by pre-recorded PROMOS. See also PAGE, below. 2. (Very rarely) a Performance Appraisal, or job review.

Packing Theory n. The scientific discipline that provides a mathematical basis for optimizing the arrangement and stacking of quantities of items within a given space.

NOTE: I acknowledge that this is the deep end, and that I don't know much about it. However, I do know that...

TRUE STORY: Packing Theory was invented by the British Navy, who back in the days of rigging and sail were desperate to maximize the number of cannon balls and kegs of powder stuffed into their ships of war. Seems that the last man, er, boat still shooting tended to win those engagements they kept having with the Spaniards, pirates, etc. Not to mention that resupply was often weeks or even months away.

Well, here in our present context we simply observe that there is often such a thing as A Better Way, but also acknowledge that cramming the most into a given space is not for us as desperate a priority as it was for those sailors way back then. Other things, like the appearance of neatness and visual appeal are equally important to STORE MANAGERS and CUSTOMERS alike, and deserve our diligent consideration.

For a little more about circle packing, with diagrams, see, e.g.,

^{http://mathworld.wolfram.com/CirclePacking.html}

Pad n. The left-over cookie-sized punched-out center portion of a large circular FLOOR polishing or buffing machine insert used by the CLEANING CREW. See also CLEAN-UP.

NOTE: These things are mighty handy when used for various small cleaning jobs along with RED or BLUE JUICE. E.g., for the periodic cleaning the TAG rails fronting all of an aisle's bottom SHELVES, etc.

Page n. Any call or announcement made over the STORE'S Public Address system: "Did you hear that page?" —v. To make such a call or announcement: "Did you page me?"

NOTE: Some people seem to thing that talking incredibly fast and/or sounding impatient or cranky is the right way to make a Page. Uh,... no.

Consider what's playing over the PA before your Page interrupts: MUS-ICK! and the occasional PROMO with professional production values. The idea here is to provide an audio environment that soothes and informs the CUSTOMERS. To help encourage them to be happy shoppers.

Thus, your style of speaking when making Pages should likewise soothe and inform. For example: "Customer assistance to Captain's Choice, please. Customer assistance to Captain's Choice." Friendly; good manners; that kind of thing.

HOW TO: Make a PAGE

1. Pick up the telephone handset.
   

Press and release the "Page" button on the body of the phone.


Speak into the handset receiver slowly, clearly, and loud enough to be heard.

Repeat the message, saying the person's name or department name and the place or phone extension they should contact twice.


Press and release the small rectangular "Release" button on the body of the phone to break the connection silently and avoid making a loud audible "clunk" over the PA system.

2. Hang up the telephone handset.

Repetition and speaking slowly is important because—like you—other ASSOCIATES and MANAGERS are busy, are sometimes in a noisy environment, or are in the middle of conversations, and so on, and may not immediately "tune in" to what you're saying. So, help them out: speak slowly, clearly, and give the important information twice. If nothing else, it cuts way down on those ridiculous: "Please repeat the last page..." Pages.

Pallet n. A low, roughly table-sized platform that supports and is used to transport STACKED CASES of various PRODUCTS: "Drop those pallets under the mezz." See also CHEP PALLET.

NOTE: Pallets are typically made from either wooden ties with cross-laid slats or a single piece of heavy-duty molded plastic. Contents may be bound around the circumference in layers of wide plastic film WRAP to help add stability.

Paper PALLET n. One or more occasional, special PALLETS kept aside to hold CASES of paper towels, tissues, and other paper goods of various kinds and sizes. See also WATER PALLET.

NOTE: While technically BACK-STOCK, CASES on the Paper PALLET are typically not put in the GUN because they are high-turnover, and will not spend any appreciable time in INVENTORY. These PALLETS get worked every SHIFT or so, as often as necessary to keep the SHELF reasonably full.

Phone Features n. Beyond simple direct dialing, there are extra things you can do using the in-store phones.

(* This space RESERVED for PHONE FEATURES LIST *)
(* E.g., How to use Feature-74-Hold... ??? *)

Phone List n. A directory of in-store telephone extensions. (* Common to all stores? *)

(* This space RESERVED for IN-STORE PHONE DIRECTORY *)

Pick List n. A daily, computer-generated list of BACK-STOCK ITEMS to be gathered and THROWN to the SHELF: "I'm doing the Pick List."

Pick List CART n. A RUNNER of BACK-STOCK ITEMS that the computer "thinks" ought to GO to the SHELF: "Work the Pick List Cart next."

Pick of the Week n. 1. A weekly sales promotion of a usually small ITEM at the checkout registers. 2. CASES of the Pick of the Week ITEM received as part of the usual LOAD: "Where's my Pick of the Week?"

Pinwheel Fold v. To close a BOX or CASE by laying flaps down in a clockwise or counter-clockwise order, and folding the last flap under the first to hold them relatively secure. —n. Any closure made in such manner.

Pinwheel Pack v. To put PRODUCT into a BOX, CASE or CRATE by laying it down in a clockwise or counter-clockwise order, so that the same edge of the PRODUCT packaging is in contact with the outside edge of the container, regardless of the container's rotation. —n. Anything so packed.

NOTE: Wire MILK CRATES are the container of choice for ITEMS like 100-ounce plastic jugs of laundry detergent, and the Pinwheel Pack holds four of them nicely, with every label facing outward for ease of identification.

For pouches of rice or pasta side dishes, lay them on their backs in a pinwheel arrangement, possibly alternating head-for-toe in small STACKS so each composite STACK of STACKS in the pinwheel lies flatter.

As with all packing, the idea is to clearly show what's in there, plus (what may be a slightly competing objective, namely) to minimize the task of reorientation as ITEMS are later extracted.

Plan-O-Gram n. A diagram or chart used by the RESET TEAM that shows the intended placement and arrangement of the HOLES for ITEMS on the SHELF.

Plexi n. Short for PLEXIGLASS. See GLASS.

Plexiglass n. See GLASS.

PLU n. "Produce Look-Up (Code)," or "Price Look-Up (Code)." A numeric code, usually four digits, possibly five, on produce labels which is used by checkout cashiers to link the fruits or vegetables customers bring to be placed on their register's scale to the appropriate PRICE on a written list or in the STORE'S computer.

NOTE: The PLU is such a fixture of the GROCERY scene that nowadays almost nobody knows what the letters stand for—and that includes lots of people working in Produce departments! There's also some debate about whether PLUs are standardized across different stores and in different areas of the country. Most likely the answer is that the industry is in the process of promoting its standards. Different PLUs for different stores and different areas of the country makes no sense.

In any case, CUSTOMERS who use the U-SCAN self-checkout lanes can lookup PLUs themselves on a nearby chart, or get assistance from the overseeing U-SCAN operator.

According to one source, the usual produce PLUs of 4 digits (4011, for example) are conventionally grown, whereas organically grown produce PLUs consist of 5 numbers, with the first number always 9 (94011, for example). Genetically modified produce PLUs have 5 digits, with first number is always 8 (84011, for example).

Plus, (+) v. To record on the (NEGATIVE ORDER WORK) SHEET the addition of one or more CASES put into BACK-STOCK: "Remember to plus that." Also PUT IT IN THE GUN.

Pop Shell n. The medium-sized shaped plastic tray used to support, move and stack groups of eight or so 2-liter soda pop bottles.

POP SHELLS Porch n. The outside area accessed via ALARMED perimeter door that is enclosed by a high chain-link fence where STACKS of empty POP SHELLS, PRODUCT-specific PALLETS, plastic BREAD RACKS, and other such weather-proof VENDOR-owned ITEMS are stored to await pick-up on their next RUN.

P.O.S. n. "Point of Sale." I.e., typically a small DISPLAY at the checkout registers. See also PICK OF THE WEEK.

Power JACK n. A large, mechanized JACK with rechargeable batteries which has motors to lift and move heavier PALLETS than can be managed with a HAND JACK. Contrast HIGH-LIFT.

Price n. The regular, OFF-SALE cost of an ITEM to the CUSTOMER. Compare SALE PRICE.

Price Check n. A request by a cashier at a checkout register or at the CUSTOMER SERVICE DESK to have an ITEM'S PRICE verified by a STOCK CLERK visually inspecting the ITEM'S SHELF TAG: "I need a price check on (some item or other)."

Price Control n. The DEPARTMENT responsible for maintaining SHELF TAGS, 3-UPs and other DISPLAY SIGNS, along with the pricing and other information shown on them.

Price Discipline n. See PRICE CONTROL.

Priority Service n. An urgent call over the PA announcing that the checkout registers have become backlogged or crowded, and for all DEPARTMENTS to immediately send personnel to the FRONT-END to assist the cashiers by serving as baggers. A way to quickly increase throughput at the registers and increase CUSTOMER GOODWILL.

Product n. A tangible ITEM which can be sold. Compare SERVICE.

Product Line n. A collection of PRODUCTS, sometimes but not necessarily related or similar, from a single manufacturer; e.g., various kinds of bagged, salty snacks, or a family of soaps and detergents.

Promo n. A promotional message or advertisement. See PA.

Punch In/Out v. To enter your BADGE NUMBER into the TIME CLOCK in the BREAK ROOM when you start/finish your SHIFT.

Purple Tote n. A usually purple-colored plastic bin with two large, opposing and interlocking tabs for a lid. Typically used to transport and/or ship a collection of small or oddly-shaped ITEMS, such as spices, toothbrushes, etc. Purple Totes are mainly used by the GENERAL MERCHANDISE (GM) DEPARTMENT.

NOTE: Sometimes cigarettes or other ITEMS of special value may be shipped in red totes; sometimes not.

Put it in the GUN v. See GUN.

Q

(No entries yet under "Q.")

R

Rack n. 1. The heavy-duty multi-story steel storage shelving BAYS in the BACK ROOM. 2. See BLACK RACK. 3. The designated repository shelving in the RECEIVING area for any STORE DAMAGED ITEMS, B-ITEMS, OUT-OF-DATE ITEMS, etc. —v. To use the HIGH-LIFT to put a PALLET, often WRAPPED, up into the RACK (1) in the OVERSTOCK area: Rack this.

Rain Check n. A make-good promissory slip issued by the CUSTOMER SERVICE DEPARTMENT upon CUSTOMER request when a SALE ITEM is OUT OF STOCK, thereby guarantying the CUSTOMER the PRODUCT at the stated SALE PRICE at a later date when the PRODUCT is again available.

Rally Point n. A designated place outdoors for all employees to convene in the event of a fire or other emergency that requires everyone to exit the STORE.

NOTE: The idea is to make sure everyone is safe and accounted for.

The Rally Point should be clearly posted in the BREAK ROOM. Mine is printed in big letters at the bottom of a large blueprint of the STORE'S floor plan.

Keep in mind that Rally Points may change. Mine used to be in front of a particular bank, but the bank moved. So, now we're supposed to get together at the flagpole far across the parking LOT.

If you're not 100% sure where your Rally Point is, find out!

Recall v. 1. To remove one or more PRODUCTS from the SHELF immediately upon management notification that there is or may be an unacceptable problem, for the sake of CUSTOMER safety, etc. —n. The official notification to perform such a Recall: There's a recall on many cat and dog foods. —adj. Any PRODUCT so designated: Sorry—that's a Recalled item.

NOTE: Any Recalled ITEM is immediately N.F.S.—Not For Sale—and will be so flagged at the registers and confiscated. CUSTOMER who have purchased suspect PRODUCT prior to the issuance of the Recall may return it for a full credit or refund at the CUSTOMER SERVICE DESK. Recalled PRODUCTS are generally collected and destroyed on-site, and accounted for under SHRINK.

Receiver n. The person or manager who oversees and tracks the arrival and departure of all PRODUCTS and other VENDOR-related ITEMS that enter and leave the STORE via the TRUCK, VENDOR delivery RUNS, and otherwise. Also tracks STORE DAMAGE, OUT-OF-DATE ITEMS, and other kinds of SHRINK.

Receiving n. 1. The loading DOCK. 2. The DEPARTMENT the RECEIVER manages.

Red Juice n. See SPITFIRE.

REGIS n. See RGIS.

Regular Price n. The usual price for an ITEM when it is not ON SALE, as stated on the uppermost portion of the ITEM'S SHELF TAG.

Reset v. To systematically reorganize an area, aisle, or section of SHELVING by CUTTING IN NEW ITEMS, removing DISCONTINUED ITEMS, and arranging everything according to a given, corporate-supplied PLAN-O-GRAM. See RGIS.

NOTE: Typically if not always, Resets are done by a special RESET TEAM brought in from outside.

Reset Notice n. A paper note taped to a shelf at one end of a section, saying, e.g.: Attention Night Crew: This section will be reset on (such-and-so date).

NOTE: Reset Notices are intended as an reminder to the NIGHT CREW CHIEF (among others) not to ORDER any additional PRODUCT for the posted section until after the Reset is complete. Excess INVENTORY on the SHELF would simply be more for the RESET TEAM to move around, and would thus slow them down.

Reset Team n. An external team of people who specialize in doing RESETS. See RGIS.

Re-Shop n. Any ITEM found out-of-place or declined by a CUSTOMER at check-out that needs to be returned to the SHELF: That's a re-shop. —v. To return a bunch of such ITEMS to their proper SPOTS on the SHELF: I'm doing re-shops.

Re-Shop CART n. A SHOPPING CART kept in the BACK ROOM and/or at the FRONT-END to hold abandoned ITEMS discovered around the STORE, or ITEMS declined by CUSTOMERS at CHECKOUT. These CARTS are periodically WORKED by CASHIERS to return ITEMS to their proper SPOTS on the SHELF.

RGIS n. (pronounced "REE-jiss") Originally, Retail Grocery Inventory Service, now just RGIS Inventory Services, since—as a global supplier of INVENTORY, merchandising and staffing services—their client base is no longer limited to GROCERY STORES alone.

NOTE: Like many others, my STORE outsources INVENTORY DAY and RESETS to this company. They send in a team of specialists, and the job gets done. What's not to like?

For more information about RGIS, see:
^{http://www.rgisinv.com/}

Rim Lock n. An annoying occasional occurrence usually only encountered upon making an H-CUT, and characterized by the bottom rim of one can inside a plastic wrapped CASE resting atop the bottom rim of the very first can you're trying to lift out, thus preventing its easy extraction.

NOTE: How high can you jump while someone stands on your toes? Same thing here. You can't fight Rim Lock; just select a different can to remove first, and bypass the log jam.

Rotate v. To keep overall STOCK levels as fresh as possible and minimize SHRINK due to OUT-OF-DATE losses by pulling LOAD in the HOLE forward, and refilling new INVENTORY to the back: Always rotate baby food!

NOTE: Some things deteriorate faster than others, and eventually will go bad if left too long on the SHELF. Baby food is a prime example of an ITEM where you have to pay close attention to EXPIRATION DATES. Bottled salad dressings would be another.

Consider: if new stuff is always pushed into the FACE of the HOLE, you may eventually run the risk of some ITEMS in the very back going O.O.D. And let me tell you, it can be downright embarrassing to have a CUSTOMER bring this to your attention, saying, Hey—all this stuff is no good!

Ideally, you want to pursue a FIFO, or First In, First Out strategy with every such time-sensitive PRODUCT, where the oldest always gets brought to the front of the HOLE so it can be purchased first, ahead of the younger ITEMS that come in to replenish the SHELF.

Realistically, though, it takes a lot more work to THROW to the BACK. That's because often you'll have to remove some or even all of the ITEMS to make enough room to put newer STOCK into position at the rear.

Well, it's like they say: "Sometimes, you just gotta do what you just gotta do."

The good news is that not all ITEMS are so time-sensitive. There are plenty of things—paper goods, for example—where you don't even have to think about STOCK Rotation. Just fill it full to the face and move on.

TRUE STORY: One little old lady simply would not believe that the date of manufacture stamped on every can of charcoal lighter fluid on the SHELF wasn't its expiration date. Of course, it wasn't. But, Ma'am, honestly—lighter fluid doesn't ever go bad. Well, there was no convincing her.

Run n. A scheduled visit or delivery by a recognized VENDOR: Do you have another run today?

Runner n. A long and narrow flatbed CART, with one or two tall vertical ends and an optional shelf that is used to carry e.g., CASES of PRODUCTS around the STORE and up and down the aisles with minimum obstruction to shoppers. See also CART, U-CART. Also FLOAT, GLIDER, U-BOAT.